If arriving in Roseau, ask around and head straight for Lioness Vegetarian Restaraunt. They do an average soy-burger, but the salad, fries and pakoras are pretty good. There is also a bar attached where you can refresh yourself with the national beer, 'Kubuli'. Mmmm domestically produced and deliciously "beery".
If you can't find any couches to surf, just around the corner is the Ma Bass hostel, run by Ma Bass herself!! This charming old woman charges around $20 US for the night, but only around 80centimes for a drink from the kitchen fridge.
If heading north definitely go to Natural Livity in Portsmouth. Just in front of the American University campus, the rastafarian cook makes an awesome pumpkin tomato pizza. Moist, full of flavour with a perfect base (not too crisp and not too soft) I thought I would cry tears of joy into my freshly squeezed ginger-apple juice. They also do falafel sandwiches, burgers, wedges, cakes, wraps and more! The best thing about eating out in Dominica is that it's usually quite cheap. A beer normally costs around $4-5 EC which converts to around 1 euro or $2.50 NZ and a soy-hamburger is about $7-8 EC which should be about $4 NZ. I can see why my friend John always talks 'money' during our travels: doing the sums is a bit addictive.
If in Portsmouth, I would also suggest going to the 'shacks'. In what appears as a driveway lined by stalls you will find cheap fruit, curries, smoothies, fried vegan "everything" and other treats such as coconut biscuits.
I think I wrote this post mainly for myself- after 7 months of living away from vegan/vegetarian communities the very idea that I could just go and get something to eat without getting the 'raised eye-brow' followed by a puzzled (often somewhat shrill) "Quuuoi?! He doesn' eat fish either?", was a perfect holiday from the meat-based diet of Guadeloupean society.
Before we left Roseau, I picked up a giant sack of flavoured dehydrated soy protein. After boiling it for five minutes, it is perfect for frying in soy sauce, chilli or curry powder before being mixed into rice, a salad or on top of toasted bread buttered with avocado. Also at 52% protein it's a gives a good metaphorical slap in the face to animal-devourers who claim that without meat vegetarians will waste away to nothing. Boo-ya.
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